The razor
- The Shaving Razor
- The Safety Razor
- The Straight Razor
- Deciphering Straight Razors
- Straight Razor Types
- How to Safely Use a Straight Razor
- Basic Rules for Straight Razor Stropping
- An Introduction to Sharpening Pastes
The Shaving Razor
Old-style shaving razors come in two basic varieties: safety (double-edge or car-tridge type) razors and straight (or cutthroat) razors. The basic difference between the two is the level of safety of the former (hence its name) versus the latter. Straight razors also presuppose a certain level of expertise in their use, necessary to sharpen, maintain and shave with them.
The Safety Razor
The safety razor, of a double-edge or cartridge type variety, is meant to provide a sharp shaving instrument, while keeping the user protected from coming in contact with anything other than the blade’s edge. It earns it safety moniker from preventing the wet-shaver from serious injury. The blades used are exchangeable, come factory sharpened and are discarded when dull.
Cartridge type razors where developed with a single goal in mind: to make the shave as effortless and foolproof as possible. Obviously, something has to be given in return, and normally that something is the quality of the shave.
Double-edge razors command a level of involvement and expertise superior to that needed to shave with a cartridge razor, but are much simpler to use than a cut-throat razor. All in all, they only take some time to master and the difference in the quality of the shave is well worth the effort. With a double-edge razor, besides your shaving dexterity, two main hardware factors contribute to the quality of the shave: the aggressiveness of the razor (depending on the position of the blade guard, which is sometimes adjustable), and the character and condition of the blade used.
The Straight Razor
A straight, cutthroat or open razor is a razor with a single-edge blade that folds into its handle. The blade in most of these razors is fixed and will have to be sharpened and maintained by the user from the time the razor is bought. Straight razors require a certain level of skill to sharpen, hone and maintain, and a measure of care and attention when shaving with them.
Deciphering Straight Razors
Shaving is a tricky task; without the right tools and gadgets, it can even be a dangerous one. Imagine bringing a dull blade close to your face, one that would require you to exert more force to get the desired results; now that’s an accident just waiting to happen. Now, you can go for disposable razors that promise shaving convenience in a small plastic package, but where’s the fun in that? Shaving would be a more interesting experience if you use something bolder, something that lets you do the shaving efficiently, while giving you a feeling of living (quite literally) on the razor’s edge. A straight razor would be just the tool you’re looking for.
First off, let’s get acquainted with the straight razor (also called cut-throat or open razor). It is a razor that has a blade that can be folded into the handle, and using it requires considerably more skill and finesse compared to using the safety razors (as well as the electric ones) more commonly available nowadays. Those who are avid fans of using a straight razor swear by the fact that the shaving results are superior when compared to using the “more convenient” safety razor; in addition, the element of danger associated with a straight razor only adds to its attraction (there’s nothing tougher than exposing your face and neck to a glinting, sharp object).
There are different types of straight razors, which can be differentiated according to the grinding method, blade width and point type. Knowing the types of straight razors will help you in choosing which one would be best for your requirements. Think of your razor as something extremely personal; and for that, you would need one that fits you as perfectly as possible.
Straight Razor Types
According to Grinding Method
This refers to the curvature of a straight razor’s cross section, and also to the blade’s shape after the manufacturer has finished grinding it.
- Technical administration of the Web siteHollow Grind: refers to straight razors whose sides have concave cross sections. Nowadays, 99% of straight razors feature a hollow grind.
- Straight or Flat Grind: these razors possess linear cross section sides. They may also be called “wedge” because that’s how their cross section looks like. These models were popular in the late last century.
According to Blade Width
The width of straight razors can usually go from 3/8 of an inch to 7/8 of an inch. Wider blades have a longer life cycle and can be more enjoyable to use; however, they require more dexterity and experience. Razors with narrower blades are easier to sharpen and shave with; but they will have a shorter life and the very narrow blades (3/8”, for example) will always have the tendency to sink into the skin. Widths of 5/8” and 6/8” tend to be the most popular and most recommended for a good shave.
According to Point Type
Refers to the point profile of the straight razor.
- Round Point: these straight razors have a semi-circular point profile, and their ends do not possess sharp points. This type of razor is best for those who are just exploring the use of straight razors, as they do not have the lack of forgiveness of razors with different point types.
- Sharp, Spike or Square Point: these have a straight point profile ending at an extremely sharp point, which is angled perpendicular to the blade’s cutting edge. Highly-experienced users will benefit the most from these types of straight razors, as they are mainly used for precision shaving, especially in hard-to-reach areas. However, they will also provide you with a nick if you are not paying very close attention to what you are doing.
- French Point: these razors (also commonly referred to as “oblique point”) have sharper angled curves, and a point profile that looks like a quarter circle. They similarly end in a sharp point like the sharp, spike or square point razors; however the edge is not a straight, abrupt line. A French point razor looks edgy but refined, as compared to its sharp, spike or square point brothers.
How to Safely Use a Straight Razor
After deciding on a straight razor, you have to know the basics of how to use it properly. On your first few tries, go easy on yourself and accept that you may get results that are less than satisfactory; you can come up with patches of uneven shaving, and may get a few nicks in the process. Once you discover the shaving technique you are most comfortable with, you can start relaxing and enjoying the fruits of your (shaving) labor.
You have to choose a high quality straight razor for your shaving needs. Keep in mind that you will be putting this blade against your unprotected face. It would be ideal if you can closely examine the razor before you actually purchase it. Make sure that the blade is in perfect condition (avoid those that have uneven surfaces, nicks, indentations); you also have to check if the scales holding the blade can do so securely; you wouldn’t want a razor that suddenly snaps open just when you least expect it to. The last two pieces of advice are particularly important if you buy an used or old straight razor from Ebay or a flea market.
Probably the most important rule that should be observed is keeping the blade sharp. This ensures that even the toughest hair can be cut without having to go through the same area again and again. The sharpness of the blade also contributes to overall safety when shaving; if you use a dull blade, the tendency is to use more force or pressure when you shave, which might lead to accidental nicks and cuts. Keeping the blade sharp will help keep your face (and your neck) free from cuts and nicks.
You can keep the blade sharp by regularly honing it, and stropping it on leather or a flexible piece of canvass. Stropping makes sure that the indentations on the blade are in correct alignment, without having to eliminate any material. You can use a hand-held paddle or a hanging leather strop for your straight razor. Leather is accepted as the best material for this purpose. If you are just starting to use straight razors, you can turn to the Internet for guidance; there are a number of videos online showing you the proper way to strop. For a more personal demonstration you can ask a straight razor aficionado the correct way of doing it.
Make sure that you have your favorite shaving cream or soap handy before using the straight razor. It would be very uncomfortable (and almost impossible) to shave with a dry face; the coarse facial hair might resist the blade’s action, and this will certainly lead to razor burns and other skin irritations. You should apply a thick lather onto your face and ensure that it doesn’t dry up prior to the actual shaving process. Use a shaving brush to coax the hairs on your face to stand to attention, making it easier for them to be removed by the razor.
You are now ready for the most exciting part, the actual facial hair removal. If it is your first time to use a straight razor, take a deep breath, relax, and try your best to enjoy this experience. If you are too stiff and tense, you might end up making more mistakes, painful ones at that. Your first three fingers should hold the shank, which is the thin, lower part of the blade that is not used for cutting (it also serves as the joint that turns as you fold the blade into the scale). Keep your thumb underneath to hold the razor steady, while your ring and pinkie fingers are wrapped on the tang (the small protrusion that lets you swing the blade into the scale). With your free hand, stretch the skin on your face so you can get the closest shave possible.
Before we proceed further, you need to keep this in mind: under no circumstances should you move the blade horizontally on your face. Doing this with a sharp razor would most likely lead to pain, and possibly humiliation; you probably won’t be proud to explain how you got a two-inch (clean, straight) cut on your face. Let’s move on. Hold the razor at an angle of about 30 degrees to your face and make sure to keep your touch light but firm at the same time. Do your best to keep your hands steady, to avoid moving the razor across your skin unnecessarily. Shave with, or across, the direction of your hair growth. You can shave against the grain if you are already comfortable doing that, although going with the hair’s growth will less likely result to hair follicles being ingrown. Apply another layer of lather and go over the same area again to get a closer shave. Repeat, if necessary.
Now look into the mirror and admire that bright, freshly-shaved face. That wasn’t too hard, was it?
There are still a lot of things that you need to know about straight razors; some of the information can be found on user guides all over the Internet, while more can be learned mainly through experience. Our goal here is to arm you with as much useful information as possible, so you can concentrate on using your straight razor for wet shaving without worrying too much about putting your neck on the line, so to speak.
Basic Rules for Straight Razor Stropping
- Sharpen your straight razor gently, without hitting it or pressing it against the strop. The razor's own weight should be enough to achieve proper sharp-ening. Don't hit your razor on the strop or press it against it. You could cause it to break.
- Use the entire surface of the strop. Move the razor skewed, from top to bottom and bottom to top.
- Keep your razor flat on the leather of the strop while sharpening. Both the back and edge should lay flat on it. Don't lay only the edge or part of the blade on the strop.
- Pivot the razor on its back at the end of your sharpening stroke when you reach the bottom of the leather. Keep the razor's back in constant contact with the strop. Repeat the same gesture when you finish the counterstroke at the high end of the strop. Don't let the back of the razor leave the leather, or pivot the razor on its edge.
- Keep the leather of your strop clean. Pass the palm of your hand over the leather before each sharpening session to wipe off dust or dirt.
- Strop your razor for the first time only after it has been used several times. Dry your razor well after each use if it is made of carbon steel. A carbon steel razor will rust if not stored dry.
An Introduction to Sharpening Pastes
Read on to get acquainted with sharpening pastes and how to use them. We have chosen Thiers Issard sharpening pastes since they have a comprehensive system of grits and a high quality finishing paste. You can substitute your favorite brand instead, keeping the same grit for reference. The pastes referred to in this guide are:
- Bio-Diam 6 Coarse-Grit 6 micron (Yellow colored), for: heavy refining of edge direct from the hone; aggressive action or restoring.
- Bio-Diam 3 Regular-Grit 3 micron (Green colored), for: refining of edge direct from hone, intermediate action or restoring.
- Bio-Diam 1 Fine-Grit 1 micron (Red colored), for: regular use on razor’s edge.
- Bio-Diam 0.25 Extra-fine-Grit 0.25 micron (Silver colored), for: regular use and super-fine finishing on razor’s edge.
- Chromox Finishing-paste (green chromium oxide), recommended for use af-ter diamond-paste stropping with grits finer than 0.50 microns.
Razor Sharpening Paste Primer
Changes in technology, methods and materials have improved the experience of straight razor use immensely. Diamond Sharpening Pastes are a welcome advance for superior sharpening of straight razors, resulting in a much more keenly sharpened blade. The perfectly sharpened straight-razor enhances the entire shaving routine, leading to a very close yet comfortable shave.
Nothing is revolutionary about razor sharpening pastes. A variety of different formulations have been used over the years. Previously made of iron oxide, chromium oxide or graphite mixed into a creamy substance, sharpening pastes are applied to a leather or wood strop, and the strop is then used to work the blade back to sharpness. No barber-shop was complete without its collection of strops in a handy place, with different strops assigned to a different coarseness of paste to assist the barber in returning a dulled blade to a proper cutting edge.
To restore the sharpness to a straight-razor a progression of sharpening-pastes is used. Initially, a coarse grit paste makes quick work of removing residue and preparing the blade for fine-tuning. Once the edge is ready for their application, finer and finer pastes are applied to the blade, ultimately working towards a perfectly balanced and honed finish to the razor's edge. Traditional paste materials began to meet their match as steel-making craft improved, making razors harder than the materials used to sharpen them. This contrast between a softer grit against a harder blade is counterproductive; it actually dulls rather than sharpens a blade. Fortunately the issue was resolved once the industry devised diamond sharpening-pastes.
As the hardest material currently available, diamonds more than meet the sharpening requirements of any steel in the marketplace today. Gem-quality diamond mining produces large quantities of industrial-grade diamonds as well. These diamonds may not have the clarity and consistency of high-quality gemstones, but these flaws do not interfere with their suitability as a high quality abrasive. Additional diamond sharpening material is made available through the waste created when gem-quality stones are cut, shaped and polished. Crushed to a fine powder, this diamond residue permits an efficient and effective polishing action. A sharpening paste made with crushed diamonds can be the ultimate tool for achieving razor-sharpness.
To ensure the diamond sharpening paste used is of the highest quality possible, close monitoring of the uniformity of the size of the diamond particles is critical. Although some particles can be smaller, superior diamond sharpening pastes will not contain particles larger than the grit specified. Thiers Issard Bio-Diamond sharpening-pastes undergo stringent quality controls to assure users the diamond particles in the compounds meet or exceed these quality standards.
The carrier, or actual paste, used in a sharpening product must also adhere to the highest industry standard. Although the polishing action of an oil-based paste may be acceptable in an industrial application, this is not the case for sharpening a straight razor. Instead of the petrochemical base found there, a water-based paste is preferable. The water-based application allows for easy rinsability, avoiding the possibility of irritation or infection of the face. Free of dangerous added chemicals, Bio-Diamond water-based pastes are superior in every way, providing excellent sharpening qualities in an application so pure it meets food grade standards, comforting if accidental ingestion occurs.
Important Tips:
Occasionally, diamond pastes are so effective a razor's edge actually can be made too sharp. Problems then can result including skin irritation and razor burn as the overly-sharp edge snags on any flaws on the skin surface. Prevention of these serious issues requires a razor edge that instead floats over the skin, cutting off unwanted hairs at the base, while gliding safely across the skin.
Using diamond-sharpening compounds at a 0.5 micron or finer grit may cause an over-sharpened edge. Avoiding such fine grits and using instead diamond pastes containing 1 micron or slightly less grit will still sharpen effectively most razors dulled from normal use. Brand-new razors may need sharpening even when first opened, and it is recommended to use coarser grits in the 6 to 1 micron range to ready them for first use.
The preferred way to judge whether a razor, new or otherwise, needs sharpening is simply to try shaving with it. Note whether the razor catches, pulls or feels uncomfortable while shaving. If so, sharpening is required. When the questionable razor is tried out in this way, the amount of sharpening necessary to improve the shaving becomes obvious. Begin by applying a diamond-pasted strop round-trip twenty times and then attempt another shave. If problems still arise, run the blade against the strop again to improve the edge to your satisfaction. Although there are many tests of razor sharpness, such as the hanging-hair test, the standing-hair test or forearm shaving, the only reliable method is using the razor to shave.
Daily maintenance of a well-sharpened blade may include stropping with a variety of diamond-sharpening compounds. When a more challenging razor edge issue arises, such as a blade that has not been cared for in years or a dent or chip caused by abuse or accident, diamond pastes alone may not be enough to resolve the issue. In those cases, the razor's edge will need to be honed. After the hone has repaired the majority of the neglect or damage, diamond sharpening-pastes (for example, Bio-Diam 6 and 3, followed by Bio-Diam 1 and Bio-Diam 0.25) will complete the blade's return to a fine cutting edge.
Proper Use of Bio-Diamond sharpening paste:
A textured leather paddle-strop is the most effective way to use diamond-sharpening pastes on your straight razor. The roughness of a heavier grained leather strop holds and keeps the paste available to begin the sharpening of the blade pass by pass. Proper amounts of the paste are easily applied using the special Bio-Diamond push-drop dispenser applicator, which also avoids over-application. This conserves the diamond-sharpening paste and ensures efficient sharpening.
Dispenser procedure:
A gentle shake of the dispenser mixes the carrier and diamond dust well. Uncap and begin the compound flowing by applying pressure to the base's membrane. Ten to twelve drops is adequate for a first application. Any excess paste on the dispenser can be gently wiped onto the strop to avoid waste.
Space the drops of compound down the length of the strop and work thoroughly into the leather with the fingertips or heel of the hand. Take care with this step to ensure the most effective sharpening. There is no need to clean the paste off the strop, in fact, the remaining compound improves the next sharpening action and reduces the amount of paste needed for future sharpening.
Correctly prepared strops:
Dedicate each strop to a particular grade of grit. Each step of the sharpening process uses a finer grit to the one previous. A dull or blemished blade is quickly brought near keenness with coarser grits, and then is more precisely honed to the edge desired with more finely-gritted pastes. One strop can be changed from finer grits to coarser if desired; a transformation from coarser to finer will not be successful as some of the coarser grit will remain on the leather.
Applying first a 1.0 micron paste and then a .25 micron compound will usually produce a smooth and satisfactory edge. Sometimes an application of Chromox paste is needed to reach this stage. When changing grits, thorough wiping of the blade is essential to avoid mixing the size of the diamond particles and before any application of Chromox paste or an un-pasted finishing strop.
Proper stropping motion:
An X pattern while stropping is recommended, starting from the blade's heel and continuing to the point. Be sure to lead with the razor's back and apply no pressure, simply using the razor's own weight to keep in continual contact with the pasted strop. Once sharpened, the razor can be finished with a Chromox-pasted strop, an unpasted strop or both. Pre-shaving unpasted stroppings will maintain the blade until the multi-step Bio-Diamond sharpening is again needed, typically in two or three weeks.
Finishing with Chromox paste
Once the honing and diamond-sharpening pastes have done their magic, chromium oxide edge-smoothing compound can tame a sharp or aggressive razor edge. Used on a paddle or hanging-strop, this compound will offer a smooth and easy to use edge. The paste can be overused and such use will decrease the closeness of the shave. Proper use, however, will permit a close and clean shave. Chromox paste is the perfect answer following sharpening with extra-fine diamond grits of 0.50 and 0.25 microns. It also can be very useful after super-fine hones, such as Shapton 16,000 or 30,000 grits, Chinese 12,000 grits, or even Belgian Coticule stones. If an extremely fine non-diamond stropping-paste has been used, Chromox paste can complete the sharpening well. Chromox paste is most appropriately used on a fine leather paddle-strop or a fine leather hanging-strop, both applications using much smoother leathers than other pastes.
When using this compound appropriately, the chromium oxide paste must fill the pores on the strop; simply coating the surface will result in paste waste and a poor finishing result. Before trying for the first time, use fingers to rub in a generous amount of paste completely covering the surface and filling all imperfections. All excess paste then should be cleared off the surface with a paper towel. When only a trace of lapping paste is showing on the towel, the strop has been readied for use. Prior to spreading and buffing the chromium oxide paste, thorough stirring is necessary to prevent the settling of the chromium oxide particles in the mixture. Stirring with a small wooden stick will allow excess paste to be applied to the strop from the stick, avoiding unnecessary waste and limiting the expense of this step.
Each user will discover just the number of strops needed to give a personalized final edge. Experiment to arrive at the perfect combination of passes and amount of product needed to reach the best end result. A good place to start is ten back-and-forth X-patterned passes on the strop. More passes can be added if desired. Shaving with the blade is the only test that gives an accurate measure of the sharpening's effectiveness, so do not skip that essential step.
Suggested sharpening schedule:
- For a blade needing restoration: Following use of an appropriate hone or hones, we recommend progressive use of Bio-Diam 6 micron, Bio-Diam 3 micron, Bio-Diam 1 micron, Bio-Diam 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally, an un-pasted strop.
- For an out-of-the-box razor, not yet shave-ready: We recommend progressive use of Bio-Diam 6 micron, Bio-Diam 3 micron, Bio-Diam 1 micron, Bio-Diam 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally, an unpasted strop.
- For a razor already in regular use: We recommend, once every 2 or 3 weeks, progressive use of Bio-Diam 1 micron, Bio-Diam 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally, an unpasted strop.
- Plus for daily upkeep of the same razor: We recommend pre-shave use of either a strop coated with Thiers-Issard non-diamond finishing-paste followed by an unpasted strop or, if desired, an unpasted strop alone.
